The first step in getting a custom bicycle is the fitting
process. At the heart of this procedure is a ridiculous-looking
stationary bike on which pretty much every length and angle is
adjustable. It sounded simple enough. I showed up with bike shorts,
shoes, and pedals. We attached an appropriate-looking set of
handlebars and adjusted the geometry to closely mimic that of my
old bike. From this starting point, we could tune the fit to
maximize comfort and efficiency.
Two things surprised me. First, that I could easily tell the
difference between seemingly subtle changes. Would I prefer a
seat
tube angle of 72.0 or 72.5 degrees? Just like an eye exam, when
you have the ability to switch back and forth between A and B, you
develop surprisingly strong preferences. Secondly, the number of
variables involved is overwhelming to the novice. I came in
thinking about quantities that are fixed in steel, like seat tube
length, seat tube angle, top tube length, and so on, but I
hadn’t considered the way things like crank length, saddle
position, stem length, stem angle, and handlebar shape and
placement would affect my perception of the other things. At least
your eye prescription involves only three numbers! (And you
don’t have to break a sweat verifying the results.)
One of the most satisfying things about the fitting process was
dialing in geometry based purely on biometrics. The top tube height
will provide just the right amount of stand-over clearance from my
crotch, and the saddle will be positioned so that my patella is
directly over the pedal spindle at 3 o’clock and 9
o’clock, maximizing power transfer. The latter is verified
with a plumb bob.
As good as the fitting process is, I left with a few big
questions. One was crank length. Should I stay with 175 mm or
switch to 172.5 mm? The fitting bike offered the ability to change
this variable, but while I could tell the difference, I still did
not develop a preference. The industry has developed all kinds of
“rules” but the biggest factor seems to be cadence. I
read a bunch of academic studies on cadence vs. efficiency, but
within the range of “reasonable” values the results
seem inconclusive. Maybe it’s just a preference?
A more challenging variable was steering geometry.
How would I like my bike to steer? Responsive, fast, and twitchy?
Relaxed, slow, and self-centering? This is something I had never
thought about. Unfortunately there exists no gadget to evaluate all
the variables—the fitting bike, being stationary, has no need
for steering! My builder proposed some numbers that resulted in a
seemingly high amount of trail. Not wanting to come this far and
get something I don’t like, I did my research, compiling head
tube angles and fork offsets for a variety of bikes. We came to a
compromise that achieves a high-side-of-average trail with an
unusually steep head tube angle and an unusually small amount of
fork offset. (I am getting a handmade fork, so why not?)
One decision proved dramatically more difficult than all the
others. The repercussions could be quite serious. On this decision,
I waffled well beyond the drawing approval stage. I consulted with
friends, toured bike shops, and scoured the Internet for help. I
refer, of course, to the choice of color. Color is not a strength
of mine, and the complete lack of restrictions made it all the more
difficult. One color, two colors, or three? Fades? Flames? Masking?
Metallic flecks? Iridescent finishes? Custom graphics under the
clearcoat? I spent two weeks with a PPG automotive swatchbook to no
avail. I wanted a paint job that was simple, attractive, and not
overly flashy. I also wanted a color that was unavailable in a
store-bought bike. Finally, inspiration struck in a Ducati
motorcycle showroom: I found a Sport 1000 motorcycle painted in a
gorgeous
1970’s retro yellow. Incredibly, Ducati lists no
aftermarket paint formula for this color, but the painter said he
would eyeball it. We’ll see how that turns out.
Continued in part 3…